There is also a great deal of fresh fish from the North Sea to be tried, and chips with a dollop of mayonnaise is a local staple, as are hot, sugar-coated waffles, which you can buy in outdoor stands around the town.INTO THE NIGHTVirtually every street corner in Bruges presents an opportunity to drink excellent beer, whether it is blonde (lager) or brune (stout or ale). Moules-frites is the dish on every restaurant’s menu, but you might want to steer away from the honey pots around the Markt and head for the square near the fish market, off Steenhouwersdijk (De Visscherie, 00 32 50 330212 is excellent, and lunch is about ¤30, or £20). And no trip would be complete without sampling the excellent beer ­ you can buy presentation cases, T-shirts, glasses, or make up your own case from Brugs Bierpeleis on Katelijnestraat.MUST EATThe Belgians (and the tourists who visit the country) get through a staggering amount of mussels every year, most of which are farmed in Denmark and then imported. This being Belgium, of course, chocolate boutiques are everywhere, but for the most convenient, central shops, head for Steenstraat. And it continues to do so, judging by the brisk trade in the lace shops that flank Oude Burg, just behind the Markt.

MUST BUYLace ­ since the 16th century, wealthy Europeans have bought lace from Flanders, and it has made a significant contribution to the economy of Bruges and the Low Country in general. Once back on terra firma, you will doubtless marvel at the vaulted ceilings and ornate wood and stonework of the 14th-century City Hall, or Stadhuis, and see the Basilica of the Holy Blood. You will pass the backs of the ancient houses, public buildings and monasteries (one of which, the Brouwerij De Halve Maan, now serves as a beer museum). The drivers-cum-guides on the boats are invariably trilingual, and provide a quick-witted commentary. Or you could try the delightful 17th-century Hotel Montanus (see Room Service, below right).MUST SEEYou might think that you are falling into a tourist trap ­ and you’d be right ­ but a trip on the river is a fun introduction to the city and a great way to get your bearings in a notoriously confusing network of streets. The Ibis (00 32 50 337575) is a pleasant, functional 128-room hotel, also in a central location, with double rooms starting at ¤85 (£55). Hotel Prinsenhof (00 32 50 342690; ) is a friendly, family-run hotel hidden away down a little street, yet just five minutes’ walk from the town centre Standard doubles start at ¤125 (£80).

The hotel Die Swaene (00 32 50 342798; ) is right alongside of the bustling Steenhouwersdijk, and has a top-quality restaurant serving fresh fish dishes Standard doubles start at ¤170 (£110). The beauty of Bruges is that you are never that far away from the centre of things; even if you are staying beyond the old canals, which mark the medieval city limits, it is only a 10-minute bus ride to the Markt. Most people come to Bruges for a short stay, often at the weekend, so do be prepared to phone round for accommodation. The famous cobbled streets have a fairy-tale air, but the real beauty of Bruges is that there is always something to discover off the beaten track, whether it’s a 13th-century basilica or just a pleasant spot to stop and feed the ducks.REST ASSUREDBruges is well set up for travellers from all over the world, and caters for all budgets, too. The Markt is the city square at the centre of all things, dominated by the medieval Belfort, and adjacent to the neighbouring Burg square housing the City Hall and also the well-run tourist information centre. The journey takes around five hours and return fares this weekend cost £125 with Rail Europe (08705 848 848; ).INSTANT BRIEFINGBruges is the perfect city to explore on foot, as cars are a rarity in the city centre (in fact, the main traffic threat comes from horse-drawn carriages), and there are no hills to contend with.